Campobello:
September 11-13, 2009

Small fishing villages extend northward along the length of the island, with a Bald Eagle vigilant over every harbor. (We saw 15 in two days.) The road ends at Head Harbor Lighthouse on East Quoddy Head. Here the robust tide roars around the head into the U.S. harbors of Eastport and Lubec. Whales and birds are drawn to the rich food supply churned up by the rushing waters. During our two visits to the lighthouse, at no time were we more than 30 seconds away from a sighting. Usually, multiple Finback and Minke Whales were surfacing at once, often joined by Harbor Porpoises. Roosting birds are abundant, including Bonaparte's Gulls and Black-legged Kittiwakes (right).

Campobello is just over the border from Lubec, Maine - one of the best shorebirding spots in Maine. We caught an optimal tide at South Lubec Sand Flats and witnessed many hundreds of migrants, including dozens of Sanderlings (left), and mixed flocks of abundant Least and Semipalmated Sandpipers (right). Roughly 50 Black-bellied Plovers showed all of their seasonal plumages, as well. Whenever things began to get stale, a Merlin flashed through the flock, or a Northern Harrier floated nearby over the dunes, livening things up.

These flocks were spiced up by a few Semipalmated Plovers (left), Red Knots (right), and Short-billed Dowitchers. When high tide finally arrived, the shorebirds departed abruptly for Quoddy Head State Park - right around the corner. All of the birds took up roosts in the shadow of the lighthouse at the base of the cliffs, huddled together so tightly that they looked like barnacles on the boulders. Meanwhile, offshore, we were astounded at the high number of shearwaters. Of the approximately 300 shearwaters within view, 90% were Sooty, 10% were Greater. Many Black-legged Kittiwakes, Black Guillemots, and Common Eiders were within easy viewing. The highlight was a Parasitic Jaeger that slowly crossed the horizon directly in front of us.

The next morning started well. Before breakfast, we struck off in search of Spruce Grouse. Disembarking from the van at a likely looking spot within Roosevelt International Park, we scored a sprightly male (right) within minutes. Following breakfast, we returned to the lighthouse were the whales were even more active than the previous day, and the shearwater abundance had grown to over 500 birds. The rest of the morning was spent touring the Roosevelt cottage, eating lunch at Quoddy Head, and then visiting Monica's Chocolates for dessert. A couple of waterfowl stops turned up plenty of ducks.

Leaving behind hundreds of barking seals (left) and a pair of Razorbills (right) at Quoddy, we headed south. A stop at Addison Marsh hit the jackpot, as many Blue-winged Teal, sandpipers, yellowlegs, and a couple of dowitchers concluded a great trip.