Travelogue: "A Can-Am
Weekend"
Lubec-Campobello-Eastport: September 7-9
A
particularly sociable group of birders enjoyed a fabulous time in
Lubec-Campobello-Eastport. There were many highlights, especially the fact
that it stayed sunny and warm through Sunday afternoon even though rain
had moved into southern Maine early in the day.
Saturday morning's first stop at Eagle Bog on Campobello turned up a
few foraging flocks of warblers along the extensive boardwalk, mostly
Yellow-rumps and one Palm, but the Lincoln's Sparrows commonly found there
were silent or already southbound. Then, it was back across the border and
over to West Quoddy Head State Park, which revealed more than the usual
number of Bonaparte's Gulls and Black-legged Kittiwakes among the rocks,
but none of the Razorbills that can sometimes sneak in close to shore
there. Black Guillemots were the only alcids available, many of them
already entering their winter plumage. We timed our arrival at our third
stop perfectly. The tide at South Lubec mud flats had dropped just enough
to lure in the shorebirds but was still high enough that the birds were
close to us. The sandpiper flock was was too big for practical counting,
but it was noteworthy that the number of Least Sandpipers in the flock had
fallen to about 10% of the total from numbers seen over the two previous
weeks. As usually happens through September, the variety increases as the
numbers diminish. We scored Red Knots, dozens of Short-billed
Dowitchers, 75 Black-bellied Plovers and 1 American Golden Plover. Fresh
from those successes, we trotted off to Boot Head trail in Lubec and
turned up a female Spruce Grouse right on cue.
Then
it was back to West Quoddy Head for a picnic lunch and one of the
weekend's more humorous moments. While most of the birders wandered
through the parking lot and up the access road looking for Boreal
Chickadees, one came to rest right on the roof of the outhouse next to the
van - seen only by the one person who remained behind. Fortunately, the
chickadee did linger long enough for most people to get a look, and we
were able to turn up another at the Edmunds Unit of Moosehorn NWR the next
day.
Back
on Campobello Saturday afternoon, the usual large numbers of Bonaparte's
Gulls and Kittiwakes filled the channel, joined by scores of Northern
Gannets at East Quoddy Head Light. However, the running joke for the
weekend was the abundance of eagles present. There may have been as many
as three dozen different individuals in the area, but it's hard to tell
when they're all milling about along the shoreline and offshore islands.
Just before supper, we poured out a few Cabernets and Chardonnays and
lounged in Adirondack chairs overlooking the channel, watching several
Minke whales work the tidal rips in front of our cottages.
Sunday
dawned sunny and warm. We enjoyed an early breakfast and then toured the
summer home of President Franklin Delano Roosevelt among the flowers and
grounds of North America's only International Park. From there we hustled
up toward Eastport, stopping briefly at Monica's Chocolates in Lubec,
Moosehorn National Wildlife Refuge in Edmunds, and an early picnic lunch
at Gleason Point in Perry. Conditions were favorable for raptor migration,
so we did get a few sightings of Merlins, American Kestrels, Sharp-shinned
and Broad-winged Hawks along the way. After lunch, we had just enough time
to squeeze in a stop at Raye's Mustard Factory in Eastport, America's last
remaining cold-process mustard plant. Then it was time to board the
Sylvina W. Beal windjammer. As it happens, our trip coincided with
Eastport's first annual "Pirate Festival" and we departed the dock among
much festivity. The sailing cruise itself provided close looks at several
Finback whales and one Minke, plus innumerable Harbor Porpoises. Many
Northern Gannets were present among the gulls and kittiwakes, but only one
Sooty Shearwater. (Return to Home Page)
Thanks to Bob Kleckner for the photos.